New Construction Inspection Checklist: Pre-Drywall, Final, and Warranty Phases
A municipal inspector checks a new home against minimum code on a schedule measured in minutes. That is not the same as someone checking the home on the buyer's behalf. New construction inspections are organized by phase because the most consequential defects — flashing, framing, rough-in — become invisible once drywall goes up. This checklist covers each phase and what can only be caught during it.
Who orders this
Any buyer of a newly built home, especially in a production-builder subdivision. The pre-drywall inspection is the single highest-value visit; the 11-month warranty inspection is the last chance to use the builder's warranty.
Phase 1 — Pre-Pour and Foundation
The shortest window and the hardest defect to correct later. Often skipped, occasionally decisive.
- Footing dimensions and depth relative to the plan
- Reinforcing steel size, spacing, and support off the soil
- Vapor barrier under the slab, lapped and intact
- Plumbing rough-in locations against the plan
- Post-tension cable layout where applicable
- Form alignment, squareness, and diagonal measurement
- Soil condition, compaction, and any standing water in the excavation
- Anchor bolt or strap layout and spacing
- Termite pretreatment documentation where required
Phase 2 — Pre-Drywall
The most important inspection of the project. Everything here disappears behind drywall within days.
- Framing member sizes, spacing, and species grade stamps
- Notching and boring of joists and studs within allowable limits
- Cut or modified engineered trusses and I-joists — never permitted without engineering
- Bearing points continuous down to foundation
- Headers sized and supported at openings
- Hangers, straps, and hold-downs installed with the correct fasteners in every hole
- Fire blocking and draft stopping at required locations
- Sheathing nailing pattern and edge distance
- Housewrap installation, laps shingled correctly, and seams taped
- Window and door flashing — sill pan, jamb, and head flashing lapped over the housewrap
- Roof underlayment, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys where required
- Step and kickout flashing at roof-to-wall intersections
- Plumbing rough-in — supports, slope, venting, and no crushed or kinked PEX
- Electrical rough-in — box fill, cable protection plates, staple spacing, no damaged sheathing
- HVAC rough-in — duct runs, supports, sealed joints, and no crushed flex
- Duct and plumbing penetrations sealed at plates
- Insulation and air sealing plan visible before it is covered
- Bath fan ducted to the exterior, not to the soffit or attic
Phase 3 — Final Walkthrough
Operate every component. Builders expect a punch list, and a specific one gets fixed faster than a vague one.
- Every window and door operated, locked, and checked for square
- Every receptacle, switch, and light fixture tested
- GFCI and AFCI protection verified by testing, not by assuming
- All plumbing fixtures run, drained, and checked for leaks under the cabinet
- Water heater TPR, pan, drain, and expansion tank
- HVAC operated in both heating and cooling, with the temperature split measured
- Condensate primary and secondary drains and float switch
- Every appliance operated through a full cycle where practical
- Grading and drainage away from the foundation
- Downspouts installed and discharging away from the structure
- Roof covering, flashing, and attic conditions
- Attic insulation depth verified against the posted certificate
- Garage — firewall separation, self-closing door, no unsealed penetrations
- Exterior caulking, siding gaps, and paint coverage
- Driveway, walkway, and patio flatwork cracking and drainage
- Cosmetic punch list — drywall, paint, trim, flooring, cabinets, countertops
- Smoke and CO alarms present, interconnected, and functional
Phase 4 — 11-Month Warranty
Most builder warranties on workmanship run 12 months. Inspecting at month 11 leaves time to submit claims before it expires.
- Inspection scheduled at 10–11 months, not 12
- Settlement cracking in drywall, masonry, and flatwork
- Nail pops and seam separation
- Door and window operation after a full seasonal cycle
- Grading settlement around the foundation and at utility trenches
- Flatwork cracking, heaving, or settlement
- Roof and flashing after a full weather cycle
- Caulking failure at exterior joints and penetrations
- HVAC performance across both seasons and any comfort complaints by room
- Any item from the final punch list that was never actually completed
- Written warranty claim submitted before the deadline with the report attached
Most common findings — and why they matter
These come up often enough that it is worth knowing the consequence, not just the observation.
Cut or drilled engineered trusses and I-joists
Plumbers and HVAC installers routinely cut what is in the way. Engineered members have no field-modification allowance, and the repair requires an engineer's detail.
Missing kickout flashing at roof-to-wall terminations
The most common new-construction water defect, and it is invisible once siding is on. It produces sheathing rot within a few years.
Missing or reversed window sill pan flashing
Water that gets past the window has nowhere to drain. Catchable at pre-drywall and essentially uncorrectable afterward without removing the window.
Bath fans terminating in the attic
Extremely common on production builds. It puts the entire home's shower humidity onto cold roof sheathing.
Skipping the pre-drywall inspection
Every structural, flashing, and rough-in item on this list becomes unverifiable once the walls close. It is the one visit that cannot be rescheduled later.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need an inspection on a brand-new home?
Yes. Municipal inspections verify minimum code compliance on a tight schedule and are not performed on the buyer's behalf. Independent inspections routinely find dozens of items on homes that passed every required municipal inspection.
Will the builder let an independent inspector on site?
Most do, and many contracts address it explicitly. Some require scheduling through the superintendent or carrying specific insurance. Arrange access early rather than at the pre-drywall deadline.
When exactly should the pre-drywall inspection happen?
After framing, roofing, windows, and all rough-ins are complete, and before insulation and drywall. That window is often only a few days, so stay in contact with the superintendent about the schedule.
Is the 11-month warranty inspection really necessary?
It is the highest-return inspection of the four. A full year of seasonal movement surfaces defects that were invisible at closing, and the workmanship warranty typically expires at month 12.
Turn this checklist into a finished report
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Related checklists
This checklist is provided free for professional and personal use. It is a general reference, not a standard of practice — inspection requirements vary by state, jurisdiction, and client agreement, and licensing rules for specialty inspections differ. Verify current requirements with your state board and the relevant standard of practice before relying on it in the field.